BOSE SUB1 SPL loudness dB?

Portable PA
1

Does anybody know what the BOSE Sub 1 SPL is without the array?

 

I would like to match it with my existing Yamaha Stagepas 600BT system.

The PA shop is recommending the Behringer B1200D sub which is clearly listed as 122dB (Full Space, 1 W @ 1 m) and sounds quite good.

 

But I like the lighter, easier to carry shape of the BOSE Sub 1. The BOSE Sub 1 is twice the price, but if it has more SPL and clearer, then it would be worth the money.

 

Online BOSE support could not find the SPL rating and the SPL is not in the BOSE Sub 1 manual.

 

Can't see it for the SUB2 either

 

Please help.

Thank You

 

 

 

2

I found this website which has 124.6dB for the Sub1, but it is not an official BOSE website so who knows how it was measured?

 

https://www.musiciansfriend.com/pro-audio/bose-sub1-powered-bass-module

 

What is impressive though, is that the BOSE Sub1 is 40Hz - 3dB, which I can hear in smooth deeps for acoustic double bass. ( no big lumps or holes in bass over a wide frequency range). and uses a 480W class D amp

 

Behringer B1200D is listed as - 10dB down to 45Hz, 122dB and uses a  500-Watt Class-D amplifier. The power amp seems about the same... but then watts can be misleading when factoring in efficiency and consistency of frequency response. I am concerned about low frequency lumps and holes with that - 10dB - I dont do EDM with a 90hz kick.

 

SPL plus flat response curves and harmonic distortion (THD) tell more than watts alone, but hard to test and hear in a crammed PA shop, as it all sounds different on a small onstage when the sub can properly "breathe" and feel spacious.

 

Leap of faith? Should I pay more for the BOSE Sub1?

 

Please help me decide please, just not enough info around to decide.

 

 

 

 

3

I have thought this through and looked at Behringer, Mackie, EV, JBL and decided against all of them. I have the SP1 Pro, so I was looking like you to see what makes the most sense for the dollar and my time.  Nothing will play better with Bose than Bose they are designed to work together seamlessly and in-complete fashion. No different than Apple.  If you have an Apple phone, the most convenient and cost-effective decision is to stay within the brand for the long term.  

I have the Sub1, you push a button hold it for 4 seconds, then WAHLA! The S1 Pro and Sub1 know each other and make adjustments based on placement and location.  I want to plug and play, I don't have time to fiddle with dials, buttons, and switches, so I paid for the entry price to stay in the Bose line.  The Bose brand is uniformly simple with few moving parts and proven reliable through the years. 

To pursue the point, I was gifted a Bose Wave Radio in 1998. It sits up in the attic, I can bring it down plug it in and it will sound better than most AM/FM Radios on the market today.  

 

I have a 2006 Bose Wave Radio with the CD player, it works fine and remains plugged in daily.  Bose Sounddock 10 purchased new in 2009, it is the TV speaker, works fine....really good!  I purchased my Bose headphones for the family, the oldest being the first wireless Bose headphones. My fifth grader uses them religiously on her iPad with zero problems. 

 

Over the years Bose has earned its keep, my endorsement is from experience.  I fully expect the money spent on the SP1 Pro, and Sub1 will prove worth the admission price, just like all of the other pieces.  My only word of caution is to consider purchasing your unit from a company that stays in business for sterling customer service.  Bose is not bulletproof, if you need customer service from Bose, that is not what they do best at this time.  I am comparing Apple and Amazon levels of customer service levels of care.  Look into Sweetwater and compare it with Bose's customer's service.  

 

4

Have you checked out either the EV EXL200-12 or RCF 702?  Both 42lbs, both 129db peak, Ev 600 watts RMS, RCF 700 watts, Bose 480 watts

EV $650 RCF $850  both better performing than Sub1. Sub1 has High Pass Filter that the other two don't have but I'm not sure if it works with only S1Pro tops? EV is my choice because it has Bluetooth App control the other two are lacking. But for the weight and form factor Sub1 is excellent. The clarity of the Sub1 is in another league than the Behringer.  Sub1 is twice as powerful as my previous B2 sub!

5

Yes, I had a look at the EV, which I really liked, and came very very close to buying. I agonized about it, and in the end decided to purchase the Sub 1 - but you discovered some of the same issues I experienced.

 

The factors I considered were:

 

1. The Behringer B1200D was less than half the price, but I agree, Sub 1 seemed to have better low end accuracy. Less boom and more tight feeling, not really much louder, but more punch when needed.

 

2.  The EV ELX200-12SP was $200 more, and was more powerful than Sub 1.  The specs seem to confirm this with 1200W and 129dB SPL/1m. But the Sub 1 was 3kg lighter and easier to carry suitcase profile, and frequency response seemed smoother. The EV power may have also been wasted on the S1 Pro and my modest Yamaha Stagepas 600BT top boxes and powered mixer - which is only about 680w total

 

3. Technically, the S1 Pro is a better match to the Sub 1 if the source is connected to the Sub 1 first, and the Sub 1 sends the higher frequencies to the S1 Pro. But in reality, most ppl use the S1 Pro as the source, and the HPF feature is sadly bypassed and becomes useless. If BOSE engineers could update S1 Pro firmware to simulate a Sub 1 HPF type connection, then this would create a new market category set up - eg most compact "in between" setup

In summary:

 

S1 Pro alone -->   Fantastic small setup for up to 50 ppl - use inbuilt mixer for two mics  and blue tooth backing track. Very happy.

 

S1 Pro Sub 1  --> ok for up to 100 ppl, but has HPF problem when using S1 Pro as source. Low frequencies are duplicated and muddy compared to normal HPF setup.

 

Yamaha Stagpas 600BT S1 pro (monitor out) Bose Sub1 (sub out) up to 200ppl -->  A great sounding light medium set up for musicians. ( not for EDM) The Stagpas mixer board manages LPF to the Sub 1 with "sub out", and "monitor out" to the S1 pro.  Super Happy - every thing is balanced and clear.

 

Comments Welcome - like most musicians, I cant afford to have duplicated equipment for various venue sizes, but would like to add what I need, only as i need it,  from what I have loaded in the car. lol

 

 

 

 

6

Paul6  Great write up!  You made the right decision, all your points are spot on.  Can't beat the form factor/weight of the Sub1.  Also love the fact that it runs cool to the touch without a fan. Another point to remember, if your gigs get larger in the future you can pair two in cardioid mode.  I also compared it to the Fishman SA Sub 300  at $400, only 29 lbs, 300 watts,  but only 109 dB peak.  The Sub1 outperforms it in every way!  The Sub1 a little pricey compared to others at $800, but we pay for that BOSE logo/quality.

7

I was able to play at 95.5dB before the Sub1 started to flash red/clipping light. This was with the array. The bass is very musical and tight for a live sound subwoofer. I got the best bass between 11:30 - 1:00 on the gain knob. Unless you play outdoors or DJ I think the Sub1 will meet the needs of most Pro32 users. It's an incredible combination!

8

Oh yes, thanks for mentioning the cardioid mode feature in the SUB 1, that was a very important future upgrade consideration as well.

 

In the last gig I was getting terrible low frequency hum from my instrument mics on a small stage - something the anti feedback on the Yamaha Stagpas 600BT mixer board could not eliminate when using with the "boomier" Behringer B1200D. This meant that I could only use about HALF the rated power, which is a waste of money

 

Bose SUB 1 cardioid mode should be able to use ALL of the rated power, as it projects bass towards the front and cancels out unwanted low frequencies feedback at the back  - which is better value for money overall.

 

This is all trial and error, and depends on stage setup too.